The Secret to a Truly Gentle Cleanser: Choosing the Right Surfactant

At the heart of every facial cleanser is a surfactant - but not all are created equal. Choosing the right one is key to developing a formula that’s both effective and gentle.  

Here, we are exploring what are the common surfactants used in this space and their challenges, what to look for in a surfactant and why our bio-based, non-ionic surfactant stands out.

Different Cleansers, Different Needs

Each cleanser type - gel, foam, micellar water, or cream - relies on different surfactants. But many commonly used options can disrupt the skin barrier, irritate the eyes, or can be affected by upcoming regulations. 

Common Surfactants and Their Challenges

Here are a few widely used surfactants and the issues they present: 

• Sulfate based surfactants (such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)): A powerful cleanser and foamer, but known for its high irritation potential and tendency to strip the skin’s natural oils. 

• Amino-based surfactants (such as Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate): A mild surfactant often used in sulfate-free formulations, but may cause irritation in some individuals. 

• Alkyl poly glucosides (APG) (such as Decyl Glucoside): Based on tropical oils and can be potentially affected by the upcoming EUDR regulations but can improve the performance of other surfactants or conditioning agents within a formulation. 

• PEGs (such as PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): Raises concerns about ethoxylation byproducts (such as the 1,4-dioxane), with potential restrictions, but gentle on the skin and supporting skin barrier. 

What to Look For in a Surfactant for facial cleansers

When sourcing surfactants, consider:  

• Skin and eye mildness  

• Biodegradability  

• Compatibility with actives and preservatives  

• Foam quality  

• Regulatory compliance 

Why Our bio-based non-ionic surfactant stands out

In our formulations, we have successfully replaced PEGs and APGs and have seen that our non-ionic surfactant, made via biocatalysis, offers:  

• The lowest irritation potential compared to other surfactants, based on the Zein test performed (see image below) – making it the mildest surfactant on the market and ideal for sensitive skin 

• Excellent cleansing as per the test that we have performed and seen 

• Biodegradability 

• Luxurious foam  

• Future-proof regulatory profile against, for example, upcoming EUDR and 1,4-dioxane regulations.  

Zein test focuses on the solubility of the zein proteins to determine the irritation potential (harshness) of a surfactant.

Whether you're formulating a new product or improving an existing one, the right surfactant is the foundation of a truly gentle and effective cleanser.  

To learn more, fill out our form or contact our team:  

• Denis, Head of Commercial - dep@nor-falk.com  

• Giulia, Commercial Business Developer - gma@nor-falk.com   

• Daniel, Application Scientist - dlj@nor-falk.com 

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